Recipe. Kaiserschmarrn

Kiss my hand, my lady...

This dessert was first served to the Austrian Empress Elisabeth in 1854; it is said to have been accidentally torn whilst being served, which later became its distinctive feature. It was only afterwards that the dessert was ‘repurposed’ for Emperor Franz Joseph I and named Kaiserschmarrn. Such is the background to this famous Austrian dessert tradition.

The word ‘Schmarren’ has been in use in Bavaria and Austria since the 16th century and refers either to a dessert baked in a generous amount of fat or lard (formerly also known as ‘Schmer’) or a slapstick comedy, a bad joke or, quite simply, nonsense.

For 4 people, you will need the following ingredients:

• 25 dag plain flour
• ½ l milk
• 3–4 eggs
• Raisins
• Salt
• Butter or clarified butter for frying

Here’s how to make Kaiserschmarrn:

To make the Kaiserschmarrn, mix the flour, milk, salt and egg yolks into a smooth batter, whisk the egg whites until stiff, gently fold them into the mixture, then add the raisins. Pour the batter, about a finger’s thickness, into the hot butter; cook the first side covered until golden brown, then turn it over, cook uncovered until done, and tear it into small pieces using two forks. Serve immediately, sprinkled with icing sugar. Kaiserschmarrn goes wonderfully with cranberries, homemade compote or purée.