The native trout as a part of Tyrolean cultural heritage
In the footsteps of Emperor Maximilian I.
It is not only the history of Hall in Tyrol shaped Emperor Maximilian I; he also left his mark on fish farming in Thaur. As a gifted hunter and angler, the Habsburg ruler had fish brought from Lake Piburg and Lake Achensee to Thaur. These were reared there and released into the higher mountain lakes for fishing. The fish farm is first mentioned in a document in 1504. This makes the facility in Thaur the oldest fish farm in Tyrol! Emperor Maximilian I would certainly never have imagined back then that, some 500 years later, the trout would be designated a ‘primitive trout’ and recognised as part of Tyrol’s cultural heritage.
From mechanical engineer to passionate fish farmer
Nikolaus is actually a qualified mechanical engineer. Together with his father, he eventually set out on a completely different path. Since 2016, he has been a full-time farmer and puts his heart and soul into running the fish farm in Thaur. His fascination with fish, which dates back to his childhood, drives him in his daily work. The site now features not two, as in the days of Emperor Maximilian I, but a total of 25 fully equipped gravel ponds, as well as a hatchery. Fish farming has changed significantly since those days. Every day, Nikolaus faces new challenges that need to be overcome: from grey herons and the maintenance of the facilities to the constantly changing environmental conditions.
Like father, like son
His enthusiasm for the primeval trout and the art of fish farming is evident not only in conversation, but also across the 3.2-hectare site in Thaur. His father, Dr Nikolaus Medgyesy – a biologist and the discoverer of the primitive trout – was also captivated by this long-forgotten art and species of fish. He took Nikolaus along on his research expeditions from a very young age. No wonder, then, that his own children, Thomas and Niklas, also enjoy accompanying the master fish farmer to learn more about this part of Tyrolean cultural heritage.
Fish farming
Even the rearing of the Tyrolean native trout alone is something special at the Thaur Fish Farm. The fish are reared by hand and with great care. The fish are fed neither chemicals nor medication. Fish farming is a very labour-intensive process: It takes around two months from the eggs, through the larval stage, to the fully grown fish. Especially in the early stages, sleepless nights are simply part and parcel of the rearing process. Every day – if not several times a day – Nikolaus checks on the tiny eggs and removes the unfertilised ones. It’s not always easy, as a single wrong move can destroy several eggs. There are currently around 160,000 brown trout and 80,000 lake trout at this stage in the hatchery.
The fascination of wild trout, fry and fresh, farm-fresh delicacies
The brown trout has been around for around 20,000 years and is regarded as a relict from the Ice Age. This ancient trout, native to the Danube in Tyrol, is part of Tyrol’s cultural heritage and must be preserved. The fish has repeatedly fought for survival over the past few centuries and was virtually extinct. The breeding programme in Thaur plays its part in preserving this cultural heritage. Nikolaus is the only person in Europe who breeds the ancient trout. He has dedicated himself to the conservation of this species. As well as selling directly from the farm, his main priority is sustainability. The ancient trout is bred for stocking purposes in local waters. In addition, fish for consumption – such as lake trout, brown trout, Alsatian char and tiger fish – are also reared on site and sold fresh. Nikolaus is not a fan of ‘fish on ice’. Only when you have seen for yourself how painstakingly yet lovingly the fish are bred in Thaur can you understand just how labour-intensive a fish farm is for a one-man operation these days. There are no fixed opening hours for farm-gate sales. By arrangement with the master fishmonger, you can collect fish fresh from the gravel pond and have it gutted on the spot.
Marinated Tyrolean trout – a summer recipe suggestion
Ingredients for 4 people: approx. 1 1/4 kg fillet, 100 g salt, 50 g white sugar, 50 g brown sugar, 2 tbsp coarse mustard seeds, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 80 g dill (finely chopped), black farmhouse bread and honey and mustard sauce
Cooking tip from Master Fisherman Nikolaus: Mix salt with white or brown sugar, grind the mustard and peppercorns in a mortar and fold them in. Spread the mixture over the flesh side and use dill to garnish. Tip: Coat the fillets in a freezer bag and squeeze the air out of the bag. Place in the fridge for 24 hours. Afterwards, roughly remove the salt crust and slice the fish, skin-side down. Serving tip: The marinated trout tastes best on a slice of black farmhouse bread spread with butter – served with a honey and mustard sauce with dill. Bon appétit!
