Long-distance hiking with mountain spirits and saints. Press release

Hiking for five days straight? Until now, I hadn’t thought I was up to it. But now there’s a new long-distance walking route in the Tyrolean mountains that requires neither extreme summit scrambles nor gruelling climbs. It’s said to be ideal for leisure hikers like me, staying at comfortable altitudes, and the stops along the way are all in the valley. That sounds good at first. There’s just one thing that still makes me a bit uneasy, though: mountain spirits are said to be on the prowl along the route. Will I still pluck up the courage to walk the Mountain Legends Long-Distance Trail?

First things first: I’m going. The route, which runs between the Karwendel Mountains and the Tux Alps, is simply too tempting, as are the menus at the huts and alpine pastures I’ve got my eye on.
I set off from Gnadenwald, a small village on a sunny plateau in a location that could not be more idyllic. Following the Way of St James, the route takes me to the secluded pilgrimage church of Maria Larch. Here, in this larch forest, legend has it that a farmer’s wife felt the presence of the Virgin Mary particularly strongly; in the centuries that followed, the site became a popular place of pilgrimage. I, too, feel the magic of this special place and take a longer break here before continuing via the village of Fritzens to Wattens. Today’s destination is best known for the Swarovski Crystal Worlds. I, too, step into this sparkling wonderland, guarded by a water-spouting giant. I am instantly enchanted by the chambers of wonders, which were designed by André Heller, James Turrell and Yayoi Kusama, amongst others. But what interests me even more right now is which inn has a delicious schnitzel in store for my hungry stomach.

The next morning, the journey continues: from Wattens, I set off into the picturesque Voldertal valley. After a break at the Voldertalhütte, where I treat myself to a delicious slice of apple strudel first thing in the morning, I carry on into the realm of the Glungezer Giant. Up here, he is said to have once lived in a cave, and at night he often roared so terribly that avalanches and mudslides crashed down into the valley. Even today, in the most beautiful, sunny weather, it still gives me goosebumps. According to legend, after being humiliated, he submerges an entire valley in a lake, along with all its inhabitants. If only he’d taken the time to enjoy the wonderful view, just as I am doing right now here at the idyllic Zirbensee, none of that disaster would have happened.
Even later, as I make my way down through the fragrant Swiss stone pine forest, the legend still haunts me. That’s another reason why I’m glad when I check into my cosy guesthouse and can finally put my feet up.

The next day, I’d finally got into the long-distance walking mindset. Full of enthusiasm, I laced up my walking boots and set off. Today’s route is a little shorter; I’ll be cutting the stage short with a brief bus journey so I can spend more time in the pretty medieval town of Hall in Tyrol.
Finally, I take a leisurely walk up to Thaur and have a look at the castle ruins there. This is said to be where Saint Romedius, the ‘King of Thaur’ as he is popularly known, once grew up. At the neighbouring Romediwirt, I enjoy a Tyrolean Gröstl and also pop into the Romedikirchl. How nice not to encounter a mountain spirit here, but merely a saint – even if Saint Romedius was anything but a couch potato (it’s said that he once rode a tamed lion. But that’s another story).

It’s just as well that yesterday’s stage was shorter, because today my hiking legs are being put to the test: I’m heading for the Thaurer Klamm gorge and the majestic Kaisersäule. At the so-called ‘Törl’, I cross over into the wild and romantic Halltal valley. Here, you instantly feel as though you’ve been transported back to another time. That’s why I can really relate to the legend that has been told here since time immemorial. A ghost is said to be up to mischief in the rugged rock faces of the Karwendel: the Bettelwurfgeist. A poor miner is said to have received nothing but a hard piece of bread in response to his plea for alms at the gate of a monastery. When, in a fit of anger, he hurled the bread – a gift from God – against a rock, the nun is said to have cursed him. Ever since, he has been haunting the Karwendel as a ghost. Whilst I am still pondering the story, there is suddenly a loud rumbling. Startled, I look up at the rock face beside me. A stone has come loose and, whilst it did not fall onto the path, it landed just beside it. I did, after all, eat up my bacon dumpling soup at the alpine hut, and I’m not aware of having done anything else wrong. So the Bettelwurfgeist can’t possibly mean me, can he?

I quicken my pace, not just because of the Bettelwurfgeist, but also to reach my destination for the day. It’s Gnadenwald again, this heavenly little village, and the bed into which I plop, tired and content after a long day, is just as heavenly and soft.

Today, on the last day, a lovely panoramic circular walk is on the programme. With a touch of wistfulness, I put on my walking boots, hoist my rucksack onto my shoulders and set off – but not before enjoying the hearty farmer’s breakfast served at my accommodation. After a steep climb, I find myself at the Hinterhornalm and need to catch my breath. Firstly because of the climb, and secondly because of the phenomenal view that greets me: I can see far across the Inn Valley, all the way to the Tux Alps, where I was hiking the day before yesterday.

A short stretch of path leads from here to the Walderalm, an alpine pasture that couldn’t be more idyllic. I sit down in the grass and close my eyes for a moment. I’d love to wrap up this silence and take it home with me. And right here, in this heavenly spot, is it said to have been haunted in the past? There are tales of cowbells ringing at night as if by ghostly hands, and of ghostly dogs. I can’t imagine it at all – the idyllic mountain pasture lies so peacefully and quietly in the sunlight before me. Perhaps everything looks quite different here at night, possibly when there’s a full moon?

I head back via the Ganalm to Gnadenwald, the starting point of my long-distance hike. Exhausted but happy, I look back over the last five days. The Bergsagen Long-Distance Trail has definitely lived up to its promise: a pleasant long-distance walking experience with stunning views, alpine pastures in idyllic settings and interesting places to stay. I’ll definitely be walking it again soon. And next time, I’ll take a piece of bread with me for the ‘Bettelwurfgeist’. Perhaps he was just hungry after all …

• For leisure hikers
• Five stages
• Between 11 and 17 km per day / 190 and 1,350 metres of elevation gain
• Between three and seven hours’ walking time per day
• All stage destinations are in the valley
• Easily accessible by public transport

Full details at www.hall-wattens.at/bergsagenweg